Nine tips for sharper photos
That elusive “tack sharp” image is the holy grail. There are multiple factors that go into achieving it, but these are a few steps you can take to zero in on that beautiful clarity.
Shutter Speed - the most common culprit of a blurry photo is slow shutter speed. Especially when we shoot in Program or Aperture Priority modes, we give the camera license to slow the shutter enough to nail exposure. Its quick and easy, but it doesn’t always make the right choice for clarity. It is only calculating for exposure. The “gold standard” for shutter speed is:
SS = 1/2(length of lens)
So, for a 50mm lens, I need a shutter speed of 1/100 or faster. Newer cameras can often compensate for a slower shutter speed, and vibration reduction in the lens also helps. But if you consistently end up with blurry images, this is the first culprit to rule out. Go through your blurry photos and look at the settings to determine whether your shutter speed was on the slow side. Then go outside in the sunlight (when getting enough light for exposure isn’t an issue), and bump your shutter speed way up to see if you get better results. Play around with your different lenses and see where you are stable. I have a friend who can shoot at ss=1/100 on a 200mm lens. I cannot. I’m just not that stable. See where you consistently start to see blurry photos, and now you have a line in the back of your mind that you shouldn’t cross if you want to nail focus.
Mechanics - It seems simple, but going back to the very basics can make a difference. Keep your elbows in tight to your body. Make sure your feet are firmly set. Take a deep breath in, and then breathe out slowly as you press the shutter. (Think Katniss Everdeen!) Try not to jab the shutter release button. Think about pressing, or squeezing instead. You’d be surprised how much the little things make a difference.
Try a smaller aperture. (A bigger number). Many of my students who are unhappy with the clarity of their photos are actually nailing focus in a small spot. They are just using depth of field that limits their focus to a very small slice of the image. Try dialing it up to see if you are a little happier.
Give the tripod a a try. I know they’re a pain, and I procrastinated using one for as long as I possibly could. And sometimes, it just doesn’t work. But let me tell you a few reasons to give it a go. First, shutter speed is no longer a problem. You can even try the timer setting on your shutter, so there is no movement from your finger pressing the shutter. I’ve also found that using the tripod forces me to slow down. I pay attention to being still. To making sure that I am focusing on a prominent feature. To double check to see that all of the areas of the photo that I want to be clear will be. (Like a close foreground that I may not think about if I’m worried about the mountain behind it). Even if you only use it for practice sessions, it will teach you what steps you tend to skip. I can almost guarantee you learn something.
Use the best ISO for your light. An ISO that is too high will add grain, and can make the photo less clear. Conversely, if your ISO is way too low, your shutter speed will often suffer (see #1).
If you have a mirrorless camera, try focus peaking! This is a deal changer for macro or lensbaby work!
Know your lens capability. Prime lenses are often sharper than zoom lenses. I still use zoom lenses, because I haul my gear around in nature, and fifteen lenses isn’t practical (besides being outrageously expensive!). Try renting a good quality lens to see if you get better results. That can at least eliminate lens capability as a culprit. If you are using the “kit lens” that came with your camera, you will be shocked at the clarity you get from better glass. That doesn’t have to be really expensive. A great 50mm lens is rarely expensive, and you will see the difference immediately. It is also good to be aware of the “sweet spot” on any particular lens. Many lenses - especially older ones - have a particular aperture where they are sharpest, and a range where they don’t do their best work. Zoom lenses can also have spots at certain distances where the edges will get fuzzy.
Deliberate focus. Make sure you are focused on the nearest important detail in your image. If the entire photo is sharp except for the nearest eye, the whole photo will feel blurry. Choose the most prominent object - the one you are hoping to make stand out. And then focus on the most high contrast spot that you can in that vertical plane.
Check your AF mode! AI Servo works best for a moving subject. But if you are taking a still shot, it will often do you dirty. Choose the mode that works best for your subject.
